I’ve lived and worked in Manchester all my life. There are those places in any city that you just don’t generally walk about in. They are shady, undesirable and some downright unsafe.
And then there are those places that used to be like that, they gradually attract investment, talent and change for the better.
In my days here in Manchester, I often took a shortcut along Red Bank towards the city centre. To put into words the visual appearance of this once-industrial site would be to call it an urban slum. It welcomed Ukrainian Jews in the early 19th century, who brought commerce to life in the area until it gradually became vacant, abandoned and neglected.
I tell you this because when our friends suggested going out for dinner with them I was taken aback that they should park up towards the bottom of Red Bank.
Among the arches was a clean stainless steel door with a sign reading “The Spärrows—continental pasta & spatzle.”
We had to press the buzzer to gain entry, then the door opened, we were greeted with a trendy atmosphere, almost like a private members’ club. There is something evocative and naughty vibe about this place—a sort of prohibition-era feeling.
Bookings only get you a table in The Sparrows from what I could see, and this was a Sunday night packed with young trendy working class people.
The A4 menu was somewhat confusing and yet original and creative. There is a feeling that a traditional order of starter, main and dessert are not fashionable here. There is mention by the owner of a huge number of whiskies, a wall of them to back it up and also Sake and extensive wine list.
This place is both original and a well-kept secret.
To order food here, you must approach it as you would with tapas.
We ordered sardines, a German-style pasta in various forms and side dishes. Take a look.
We had a bottle of wine to share between three of us and no desserts.
Overall I enjoyed this lovely restaurant and culinary delight. It sorts of fits into the occasional night out and the casual eating place.
There is good reason that it appears in the Good Food Guide and The Michelin Guide. The staff are passionate about the food, the presentation and their customers.
You’ll definitely enjoy the food and you can get more information and book The Sparrows here.
